Organic cosmetic labels: strengths and weaknesses

Many of you are wondering about organic cosmetics labels. What do such and such labels guarantee? What are their strengths and weaknesses? In short, how do you find your way through this jungle?

To understand their ins and outs once and for all, here are the strengths and weaknesses of each label.

Highlights :

• 95% minimum natural-origin ingredients
• Synthetic dyes and fragrances, petrochemical derivatives (kerosene, silicone, etc.), ethoxylated materials (PEG, sodium laureth sulfate) are prohibited.
• PVC and PS packaging prohibited

Weaknesses :

• Only 95% of plant ingredients are organic (50% with the "ecological cosmetics" label)
• Authorized palm oil derivatives
• No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils
• 5 naturally occurring synthetic preservatives are authorized: why not use their natural equivalents?
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate authorized
• No obligation to use 100% recyclable packaging
• PET packaging authorized

Highlights :

• Synthetic dyes and fragrances, petrochemical derivatives (kerosene, silicone, etc.), ethoxylated materials (PEG, sodium laureth sulfate) are prohibited.

Weaknesses :

• No minimum percentage of ingredients of natural origin or organic ingredients
• Synthetic preservatives authorized in their natural state: why not use their natural equivalents?
• Authorized palm oil derivatives
• No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils
• No obligation to use 100% recyclable packaging
• PET packaging authorized

Highlights :

• Synthetic fragrances and dyes, petrochemicals and sodium laureth sulfate are prohibited.
• Chlorinated plastics (PVC) prohibited
• Sustainability report or product lifecycle impact study mandatory

Weaknesses :

• Limitations on the maximum percentage of ingredients of natural origin (15 to 20%)
• Only 0-95% minimum organic ingredients: why not 100%?
• Existing synthetic preservatives in their natural state are authorized: why not use their natural equivalents?
• Authorized palm oil derivatives
• No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate authorized
• PET packaging authorized

Highlights :

• 95% minimum of ingredients of natural origin
• Palm oil derivatives banned from January^1, 2015: oOlution is delighted to see that an organic label is finally taking a stand against palm oil and its devastating effects.
• Natural raw materials must be organically produced whenever available
• Ingredients of chemical origin are tolerated only if no available organic ingredient can replace their function.
• Dyes, perfumes, antioxidants, preservatives, oils and other petrochemical derivatives (silicones, kerosene) are prohibited.
• PVC and EPS packaging prohibited
• Guidelines for water management, use of renewable energies, control of waste and discharges, and improved transport.

Weaknesses :

• No restrictions on the maximum percentage of synthetic ingredients
• PET packaging authorized

Highlights :

• Nanomaterials and ethoxylated materials (PEG, Sodium Laureth Sulfate) prohibited.
• Exclusive use of raw materials meeting the criteria defined by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).
• Packaging: PVC and polystyrene prohibited

Weaknesses :

• No minimum percentage of ingredients of natural origin, just an incentive to use as many as possible
• 2% authorized petrochemical compounds (9 authorized half-natural, half-petrochemical molecules)
• Only 95% of plant ingredients are organically grown: why not 100%?
• 5 naturally occurring synthetic preservatives are authorized: why not use their natural equivalents?
• Authorized palm oil derivatives
• No restrictions on esterified and hydrogenated oils

Highlights :

• Petrochemical derivatives (benzene, hexane, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, etc.), chelating agents (EDTA) and synthetic fragrances are prohibited.

Weaknesses :

• No minimum organic or Demeter ingredients required for certification
• No strict criteria on the composition and recyclability of packaging: simply an incentive to limit it

Highlights :

• Parabens, EDTA, borates and triclosan are prohibited.
• Packaging: all elements must be separable, packaging minimized, chlorine and PVC banned.
• Limits concerning biodegradability, toxicity and bioaccumulation of ingredients

Weaknesses :

• No minimum percentage of organic or natural ingredients
• No maximum percentage of authorized synthetic ingredients
• No biodiversity preservation policy

Highlights :

• No ingredients of animal origin except free-range eggs

Weaknesses :

• No details on the naturalness of ingredients, preservation of biodiversity, packaging or environmental protection.
• Authorized palm oil derivatives

Highlights :

• No ingredients of animal origin
• Reduced quantities of water and crops: these resources are used to feed animals

Weaknesses :

• No details on the naturalness of ingredients, preservation of biodiversity or packaging
• Authorized palm oil derivatives

With this table, the strengths and weaknesses of the various organic cosmetics labels will no longer hold any secrets for you. It was on the basis of this comparative study of the standards of each label that we reflected on possible areas for improvement and drew up our own specifications.

Among the improvements we would like to see in organic labels, there are three issues that are close to our hearts:

oO skincare products contain no palm oil or palm oil derivatives. Indeed, we at oO have no desire to contribute to the massive deforestation linked to their use. Apart from Nature & Progrès, which bans palm oil and its derivatives from 2015, no other cosmetics label has taken a position on their use.

The same applies to esterified and hydrogenated oils: there is no label on their use. These are low-quality, chemically-modified oils with very low production costs that we refuse to use in our skincare products. Nor do we want to be partially organic. First-pressed oils and organic ingredients may cost more, but that's the price we have to pay to sell quality products of which we are 100% proud.

Labels encourage brands to improve waste management and energy-efficient production. However, these recommendations are often limited to the voluntary principle and do not constitute formal obligations. In our view, mere encouragement is not enough, and environmental responsibility cannot be confined to a few scattered actions. We therefore sought to go further, by adopting a more global approach based on science. We are the first cosmetics brand to have undertaken a preventive eco-design study on all our products, in order to limit our environmental impact at source.

The entire oOlution skincare range is guaranteed to be 100% natural plant-based, palm-oil derivative-free and 100% eco-designed! What's more, we only use active ingredients from organic farming or sustainable harvesting to formulate our skincare products:

• Glow Up: moisturizing radiance and detox for normal to combination skin
• Whole Again: nourishing/protective care for very dry to fragile skin
• Check Matte: mattifying/regulating care for combination to oily skin
• Age Out: anti-aging and anti-wrinkles care for mature skin
• Eye Love: multi-action eye contour anti-dark shadows, puffiness and fine lines
• Happy Hands: the melting cream for hands and nails
• Magic Milk: moisturizing body milk for normal skin
• Body Guard: cream nourishing body care for very dry to fragile skin
• Game Over: the balancing anti-imperfection serum for all skin types
• Light Up: the anti-spot unifying serum for mature skin
• Flower Power: facial care water for all skin types
• Feet Good: cream comforting feet for very dry to fragile skin
• Loving Balm: nutri-repair balm for very dry to fragile skin

Sources :

• Ecocert: https: //ecocert.app.box.com/v/Referentiel-Ecocert
• BDIH: https: //www.kontrollierte-naturkosmetik.de/f/directive_cosmetiques_naturels.htm
• Natrue: https: //www.natrue.org/our-standard/natrue-criteria-2/
• Nature & Progrès, 2013: https: //www.natureetprogres.org/la-charte-2-2/
• COSMOS ORGANIC: https: //www.cosmos-standard.org/the-cosmos-standard-document
• The white swan: http: //www.nordic-ecolabel.org/
• Vegetarian society: https: //www.vegsoc.org/
• Vegan society: https: //www.vegansociety.com/